Southern Islands

Three of the islands south of the city share one public ferry from Marina South Pier. Singapore Island Cruise sells tickets at its orange booth, #01-04 at 31 Marina Coastal Drive, and one return ticket covers Lazarus, St John's and Kusu: S$18 an adult, S$12 for ages 1 to 12, early-bird from S$15. The boat runs a loop from the pier to Lazarus, on to Kusu and back, with no hop from Kusu back to St John's. We'd spend the morning on Lazarus and St John's and take the afternoon boat to Kusu, which means climbing its hill in the heat. Plan around the last weekday boat from Kusu, at 4.15pm; weekend boats run later. Upstairs at the pier, the free Singapore Maritime Gallery makes a good rainy hour.

The ferry calls at Lazarus rather than St John's, because St John's main jetty is closed for enhancement works. Lazarus has the sandbar, at its best around mid-tide, and a shared yacht is the glamorous way to reach it. A causeway crosses to St John's, with its lagoons and colonial-era history. On St John's, the NParks public gallery at the Marine Park Outreach and Education Centre is a room on the marine park's wildlife, about 30 to 40 minutes from the Seringat jetty. It opens 10am to 4pm, closes on most public holidays and shuts at noon on their eves. Groups of more than 20 should email marinepark@nparks.gov.sg two weeks ahead. St John's has allowed limited camping at times, so check the current rules before you bring a tent.

Kusu has a Chinese temple, Malay shrines on its hill and tortoises. Da Bo Gong (Tua Pek Kong) Temple, built in 1923, sits near the jetty, with incense burning for the god of prosperity and Guan Yin, and a tortoise pond. About 152 steps lead up the hill to Keramat Kusu, three Malay shrines that are places of prayer, so dress modestly and take your shoes off. Overnight stays and pets aren't allowed on Kusu. In the ninth lunar month the island fills for the Kusu pilgrimage. The 18-stall hawker centre in the middle of the island usually opens only then, and the ordinary ferry ticket isn't valid for Kusu. Go in those weeks if the pilgrimage is the point.

Sisters' Islands Marine Park is Singapore's first marine park: 40 hectares covering the Sisters' Islands and the western reefs of St John's and Pulau Tekukor. Only Big Sister's Island is open, 7am to 7pm, closing on the first and third Wednesday of each month unless that day is a public holiday. Small Sister's and the reefs are for conservation and research. There's no camping, barbecuing, fishing or shell collecting, and no lifeguard, and NParks warns of sudden strong currents in the lagoon. Singapore Island Cruise sells a ferry ticket that includes Sisters' Island, though its Big Sister's trips are suspended on weekdays, except public holidays, until further notice. Pulau Hantu is for certified divers. Wherever you land, there's little food and less shade, so pack lunch, water and a hat.

Where to eat

• A packed lunch and plenty of water from home: there's little food on Lazarus, St John's or Kusu, and shade is thin
• A picnic on the Lazarus sandbar, eaten before you catch the afternoon boat on to Kusu
• Kusu's 18-stall hawker centre, in the middle of the island: it usually opens only in the pilgrimage season, so bring food the rest of the year