Where we'd start
Any of these makes a good first stop.
Geylang is where the east does its everyday eating, and Geylang Serai Market is the morning stop. It's the Malay heart of the east: a wet market for fresh produce, nasi padang, kueh and, nearby, ramly burgers. Come hungry and dress modestly. Geylang Serai Heritage Gallery, in Wisma Geylang Serai, traces how the area grew from a 19th-century settler community into today's neighbourhood. During Ramadan, bazaar season fills the area with satay, kueh and strings of lights, so go after 8pm and come by train.
Old Airport Road Food Centre, in Block 51 about two minutes from Dakota MRT Exit A, is where we'd send a friend for a first hawker dinner. Go early in the evening, because the famous stalls often pack up well before the centre closes. If the queue is too long, Circuit Road Market is where the estate goes instead, with the same neighbourhood feel and a shorter wait.
After 9pm the eating moves out to Geylang Road and the lorongs, the numbered side lanes: frog porridge, durian stalls and zi char, the kitchens that cook to order for a whole table. Some of the lanes are part of a licensed red-light area, so eat where the tables are full. No Signboard Seafood is known for white pepper crab at its original Geylang branch, and Sin Huat Eating House is the loud zi char house with no menu, so go with someone who's been. A guided food tour is worth it on a first night.
Between meals, Foo Hai Ch'an in Geylang East is a working Buddhist monastery, so dress as you would for any temple and keep your voice low. The Singapore Jain Religious Society's prayer hall on Jalan Yasin, in the Eunos area, welcomes visitors for darshan, though puja follows set rules, so read the society's visitor notes first. With children, the RSAF Air Force Museum at Paya Lebar has aircraft on the ground.
Getting there
Paya Lebar MRT is about eight minutes' walk from Geylang Serai Market, and Eunos is one stop east. Dakota MRT Exit A is a couple of minutes from Old Airport Road Food Centre in Block 51. The RSAF Air Force Museum is served by Paya Lebar, and G.Spa is about seven minutes from Mountbatten MRT Exit A.
Best time
Go to Geylang Serai in the morning for nasi padang and kueh, and to Old Airport Road in the early evening, before the famous stalls pack up. Save Geylang Road for after 9pm. During Ramadan the whole area turns into a night market.
A day in Geylang
This is the order we'd go in, though each stop works fine on its own.
Where to eat
- Geylang Serai Market & Food Centre, 1 Geylang Serai, next to Wisma Geylang Serai: nasi padang and kueh for a Malay breakfast
- Old Airport Road Food Centre, Block 51 Old Airport Road: Dong Ji's char kway teow is the plate people mean, and each stall keeps its own hours
- Circuit Road Market, a short taxi ride from Old Airport Road: where the estate goes when the hawker centre is heaving, with shorter queues
- Haig Road Market & Food Centre, 14 Haig Road, by Blocks 13 and 14: leans Malay and sits closer to Geylang Serai. Stalls keep their own hours
Questions
Where should I eat around Geylang?
It depends on the hour. Geylang Serai Market & Food Centre, at 1 Geylang Serai next to Wisma Geylang Serai, suits a morning of Malay food: nasi padang, kueh and, during Ramadan, the bazaar. It's about eight minutes' walk from Paya Lebar MRT. For dinner, Old Airport Road Food Centre at Block 51, technically in Geylang, is near Dakota MRT. After 9pm, Geylang Road and its lorongs serve frog porridge, zi char and durian. Parts of the lorongs are a red-light area, so stay on the busy food stretches.
Dong Ji or Lao Fu Zi at Old Airport Road Food Centre?
Dong Ji Fried Kway Teow at #01-138 cooks one plate at a time in a drier style, usually from 11.30am to 7.30pm, and closes on Thursdays. Lao Fu Zi at #01-12 holds a Bib Gourmand, Michelin's nod to good cooking at modest prices, and closes on Wednesdays and Saturdays. We'd queue for Dong Ji first, and on a Thursday swap to Lao Fu Zi. Those are usual hours, so check before you go.
What else is there around Geylang Serai Market?
Geylang Serai Heritage Gallery, in Wisma Geylang Serai, is free and open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 6pm. City Plaza next door is a mall of cheap fashion where you can bargain and get clothes altered. During Ramadan, the Hari Raya bazaar fills the whole area with satay, kueh and crowds, so go after 8pm and come by train rather than car.
When is the best time to go to Old Airport Road Food Centre?
Go early in the evening, ideally by about 6.45pm, because the famous stalls often pack up well before the centre closes. The centre typically runs 6am to 10.30pm, and the lunch rush is noon to 1.30pm, with seats easiest before 11.30am. Dakota MRT Exit A is about two minutes from Block 51. Each stall keeps its own hours.
Can I visit the Jain prayer hall on Jalan Yasin?
Yes, the Singapore Jain Religious Society's prayer hall at 18 Jalan Yasin welcomes visitors, and Eunos MRT is the nearest station. Morning puja and darshan run 8am to 11am on weekdays and 8am to 12.30pm at weekends and public holidays. In the evening only darshan is offered, from 6pm to 8pm, Monday to Saturday. Puja follows set rules, so read the society's visitor notes first.
Is there a spa in Geylang that stays open all night?
Yes, G.Spa 24-Hour Escape at 102 Guillemard Road #02-02 is open 24 hours, and guests may walk in at any time. One admission covers up to 24 hours from check-in, but you can't re-enter once you leave, so eat inside. It has hot and cold pools, a sauna, a steam room and a nap lounge, and massage costs extra. It's about seven minutes' walk from Mountbatten MRT Exit A.
Which hawker centres are in Geylang?
NEA's list includes nine markets and hawker centres in Geylang, among them Old Airport Road Food Centre, Geylang Serai Market and Kallang Estate Market. The rest are the Circuit Road markets at Blks 79/79A, 80 and 89, the Aljunied market at Blk 117, Eunos Crescent at Blk 4A and Sims Vista at Blk 49. For a first meal, we'd go to Old Airport Road.
Things to do in Geylang
A handful to start with. Tap one for the price and how to get there.
Geylang Serai Market
Nasi padang, kuih and a Malay wet market in Geylang
1.5 hours·Geylang·Free
Old Airport Road Food Centre
The hawker other hawkers rate
1.5 hours·Geylang·Free
Geylang Night Eating
24-hour zi char, frog porridge and durian stalls
2 hours·Geylang·Free
No Signboard Seafood
White pepper crab at the original Geylang branch
2 hours·Geylang·From S$90
Geylang Serai Heritage Gallery
A Malay heartland's story inside Wisma Geylang Serai
45 min·Geylang Serai·Free
Geylang Serai Hari Raya Bazaar
Geylang Serai's Ramadan night market, once a year
2 hours·Geylang·Free